When I first moved to Sydney, I really had no idea about the city and its geography. In order to get to know my new home, I remember gradually exploring and visiting the highlights. Understandably, I was charmed by Sydney Harbour: sweeping views, nooks and crannies, hidden beaches… Middle Head is one of Sydney’s 7 Headlands. It offers a unique vantage point over the Pacific Ocean, framed by North Head and South Head. I have the ultimate guide to Middle Head, Sydney.
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The Ultimate Guide to Middle Head in Sydney
Middle Head is in the suburb of Mosman, on the Lower North Shore: it offers sensational views over Sydney Harbour and is a place of historic and military significance. It’s also great for coastal walks.
Middle Head makes for a great day out: go for a bush walk, pack a picnic, marvel at the majesty of Port Jackson, enjoy a relaxing coffee break at one of the local cafes and restaurants, and be sure to take your camera!
Georges Head
Driving along Middle Head Road, shortly after passing Mosman Village, you need to take a right turn on Suakin Drive for your first stop. Georges Head is home to Gunners Tea Rooms a chic restaurant housed in the old Gunners Barracks.
As a popular setting for events and wedding, the Gunners Tea Rooms is surprisingly reasonably priced, when you consider the breathtaking views it offers. The Middle Head trail to Chowder Bay goes past it so you won’t miss it.
The Georges Head lookout offers sweeping views over Sydney’s CBD and Watsons Bay. It’s a popular location for picnics and lazy afternoons. The lookout is easily accessible and has a number of gun pits, so take caution when walking around.
As you can see, Sydney coastal walks have some spectacular views!
Georges Head Lookout is my favourite spot to take overseas visitors and show the magnificent views from Sydney’s Middle Head.
Middle Head
At the end of Middle Head Road, and beyond the access to the navy base, there is a carpark before entering the Middle Head site. There is a loop walk through the bush to take you around the headland.
You get a magnificent view over Sydney’s Eastern Suburbs. As can see when visiting the site, the gun pits and cannon bases also tell the story of how Sydney used its unique geography to protect itself from possible invasions.
Enjoy the panoramic views over Manly from the gun pits and bunker.
The bunker at the very tip of the headland looks over to Manly and North Head. This is one of the best walks with a view of Sydney.
As a former military base, Middle Head, Sydney still has a large number of military buildings. Some of them now house cafes, artists’ retreats and even private offices. In my opinion, the Sydney Harbour Trust has done a very good job in transforming the area after the army’s withdrawal. The headland is now largely accessible to the public and offers some great hikes in Sydney.
The bushland around the headland is quite thick and home to the local wildlife, which will give you a good opportunity to catch sight of a bird or two. Walks around Sydney often turn into birdwatching…
A popular Middle Head café, Burnt Orange hosts lunch or afternoon tea within the Golf Club House. This restaurant is very popular with the locals and I recommend booking in advance. So, if the place is booked out, the gift shop is still worth a look.
Cobblers Beach
It took me a while to find out about Cobblers Beach, one of the Sydney bays dedicated to nude bathing. There is a track going down from Middle Head to the beach. It’s a very pretty beach but I would only recommend it if you are comfortable with nudity.
Chowder Bay
Below the cliff, Chowder Bay is an ideal spot for a day out enjoying the historic buildings and the jetty. Activities available include swimming, snorkelling and kayaking. You can access Chowder Bay by car along the coastline or through the suburb of Clifton Gardens. If Chowder Bay is your next stop after the headland, continue the road down the coast. Driving down, you can stop at the Beehive Casemate, an impressive fortification designed to house defensive artillery for the defence of Sydney Harbour. Nearby is a little park with a memorial to the Japanese Midget Submarine Attack in 1942.
Chowder Bay is quite a secluded spot, with well-preserved historic buildings and a range of dining options. You can enjoy some swimming, snorkelling or kayaking at this beach.
The Ripples Cafe is nestled in the historic buildings and is a lovely spot for lunch. If you are looking for a more challenging bush walk, Chowder Bay is an ideal stop on the walk from Balmoral Beach to Taronga Zoo.
Balmoral Beach
Named after the royal residence in Scotland, Balmoral is mostly known for its charming beach and heritage-listed esplanade. Balmoral became a leisure destination for Sydneysiders in 1922, upon the extension of tram services. The rotunda was built in 1930 as part of the Great Depression employment projects. Balmoral Beach has got to be my favourite beach and one of the best Sydney beach walks. Whilst parking can be a little challenging at times, you shouldn’t miss a visit to this elegant and relaxed beach. The Bathers Pavillion has been restored and is now divided into a cafe, a restaurant and a kiosk. It’s a really pleasant area to finish your tour of Middle Head in Sydney.
The Rocky Point outcrop divides the beach between Balmoral and Edwards beaches. I’ll give you a local’s tip: buy a snack or an ice-cream at the Bathers Pavillion and find a quiet spot on the Rocky Point outcrop… That’s what I do and it feels so special every time!
Balmoral Beach offers gorgeous views over Middle Harbour, North Head, Manly and Clontarf. The beach is very lively and a popular with the locals: no matter how early, you will people swimming, running, walking along the bay, walking their dogs, having a picnic or simply socialising. Due to its parking limitations, Balmoral Beach isn’t a major attraction like Bondi Beach. Therefore, it is a more intimate beach, but nevertheless beautiful.
What to Pack for a Walk on Middle Head
A walk on Middle Head is quite leisurely but you should nevertheless pack some essentials such as water, sun protection and appropriate footwear.
| Image | Title | Description | Brand | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|---|
  | Tempest 20 Women's Hiking Backpack | Lightweight hiking backpack | Osprey | Buy on Amazon |
  | Precip Women rain Jacket | Lightweight waterproof jacket | Marmot | Buy on Amazon |
  | Women's X Ultra 3 GTX Hiking Shoes | Women's hiking shoes | Salomon | Buy on Amazon |
  | Water Bottle | BPA free, leak proof | CamelBak | Buy on Amazon |
  | Aluminium Trekking Poles | Mountain Tech | Cascade | Buy on Amazon |
The Verdict on Middle Head
Middle Head is one of the nice walks in Sydney and a great day trip. It will reward you with breathtaking views of Sydney Harbour. And because Sydney is such a green city, the cheeky Australian wildlife is never far… This kookaburra seems to greet visitors on their Middle Head walk.
If you are looking for more day trips ideas within Sydney’s North, try The Basin, Barrenjoey Lighthouse and West Head Lookout.
Sydney is incredibly photogenic and has many gorgeous beaches, which are all free to visit. Sydney is a great city for the outdoor and the harbour has plenty of beautiful photo spots.
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For more coastal walks in NSW, I also recommend the Kiama Coast Walk and Bouddi National Park coastal walk.
I would love you to tell me about your experience of Sydney’s Middle Head, please leave a comment below!
Save these views of Middle Head on Pinterest!
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Loving all your pictures. I haven’t been to middle head yet, but it will have to be on the to do list when I am down in Sydney next!
hi Court, yes, do make some time for Middle Head, there is plenty to do and it’s less touristy than North Head or South Head!
Looks so dreamy! Thanks for all the details!
Thanks Sam, I’m pleased you like my post!
I went to a gorgeous wedding at Middle Head. Such a beautiful spot and the views are as magic as you describe xx
Thank you Tanya, I think I may have attended the same wedding 😉
Lovely post with great details. Keep up the good work .
Thanks Devajani, I’m very fortunate that this place is so close to my home!
This is our old stomping ground. David and I lived in Mosman for many years before moving further up the north shore line. We still go back to visit from time to time. The traffic and parking is awful but in every other respect it is a perfect part of the world. Middle Head is a fantastic place to go on New Year’s Day to watch the start of the Sydney to Hobart yacht race. We park a few kilometres away, unload the bikes and cycle there avoiding the parking and traffic hassles. You get a great view of the maxi yachts competing to be first out of the heads. I can highly recommend Gunners Barracks restaurant for lunch. It is expensive but we have never had anything but a superb experience there. If you want something a little less upmarket Frenchy’s Cafe has a lovely setting and is a locals’ favourite.
Hi Lyn, thank you for dropping by. You’re right, Middle Head is really beautiful and less touristy than South Head or North Head. I actually got married at Gunners Barracks and I love going back there from time to time.
Lovely pics. Been a while since we’ve been there – should go back!
Hi Lydia, I definitely recommend you visit Middle Head again. There’s been a lot of improvements in terms of welcoming day trippers and visitors: signage, cafes, park areas, it makes for a very relaxing day trip.
And don’t forget Cobblers Beach, the best nudist beach in Australia!
Hi Cath, indeed I didn’t include this one! But I have to say I haven’t been there, not game enough… And I don’t think my camera would be welcome there, which is fair enough!
You should definitely try it out Delphine (when the weather warms up!). My husband and I did the nude charity swim the Sydney Skinny to raise funds for Dr Charlie Teo and we’ve become regulars at Cobblers. There’s a nice bunch of people there – lots of couples and women – who are very friendly and protective and inclusive.
Thanks Cath, this is way out of my comfort zone but I’ll keep it mind for a sunny day!
I agree with Cath that Cobblers Beach is one of the best things about Middle Head. It is definitely worth keeping in mind, and I think it is nicest to visit on a warm day in winter or spring when the UV radiation is less intense.
Hi Alex, I did most of my touring of Sydney’s coastal spots and beaches last winter and the light was incredible. It made for such beautiful photography! I need to go back and discover Cobblers Beach, I managed to miss it last time!
I never new there was a North, South and Middle Head in Sydney. It certainly does look like a great spot for views out over Sydney. With so many outside hiking spots it is a great escape from the busier downtown area. Hubby would definitely be interested in the military past. I know which beach to head to if we forget to pack our swim suits!
Linda, there are no less than seven headlands in Sydney so there is no shortage of great views and hiking spots!
You weren’t kidding when you said it offers some pretty spectacular views. There are so many great vistas and vantage points to choose from. Sounds like it’s the perfect place to go for photographers to capture those nice views.
It’s hard to take a bad photo of the harbour… and hard to pick a favourite!
Middle Head is just beautiful. I love the sailboats in the distance and of course, the beach. It’s so easy to get swept away with the ‘must see’ locations when visiting. This is the perfect outing during a visit to Sydney.
Middle Head is very quintessentially Sydney… People who live around the area have a very nice life.
I would say views from the Middle Head are amazing, both the bay and the city views. Balmoral Beach is also pretty. I will like this day trip since I don’t like crowds.
Balmoral Beach is one of the prettiest beaches in Sydney, I used to walk there early in the morning, it’s so beautiful!
Wow, Middle Head really does look like a fantastic area to walk in. When I visited Perth and Melbourne last year, one thing I loved about both was that they were so walkable compared to cities in the States. I’m glad to see that Sydney is the same way and offers some really amazing shoreline views! I can’t wait to visit once things are back up and running!
Sydney is quite walkable and the public transport system is quite good. Still, I like to be able to get around in my car, it’s a lot quicker…
I love Balmoral Beach, I used to go there a lot when I was house sitting in Mosman. Yes, so much quieter and nicer than some ‘other Sydney beaches’. 🙂
Mosman is such a nice area, I lived there for 5 years and Balmoral was my beach. I always go back there happily!